Fashion has long, been a mirror, reflecting society‘s complexities – its beauty, its contradictions, and, unfortunately, its exclusions. For decades, luxury fashion, houses have benefited from the creativity, influence and spending power of Black consumers, particularly through hip-hop culture. Yet, time and again, certain designers have made it explicitly clear: they do not want Black people wearing their clothes.
The Paradox of Endorsement
Despite these over exclusions, we still see black, celebrities, influences, and consumers probably draped in brands that have dismissed them. The irony is striking – Black artists amplify the prestige of these labels, making them aspirational for global audiences, while those same designers, dismiss the very culture that enriches their creations.
Breaking the Cycle
So why does this happen? Is it about access? Legacy? A desire to prove that the spaces belong to everyone?
Take hip-hop, for instance. It is more than a genre; it is a movement that redefine fashion. The oversized silhouette of early rap, the flashy logos of the 2000s, and today’s tailored designer have all showcased an unmistakable Black influence. And yet, when some fashion designers issue, offensive statements or outrightly reject black clientele, many artists and fans continue to pour money into these brands. Almost as if seeking validation. Take for example co-founder Stefano Gabbana of D&G has made multiple offensive comments, including allegedly calling Beyoncé “cheap” and engaging in online spats with critics, often in racially charged tones.
Psychologically, there is something powerful about wearing what has historically been deemed “off-limits.“ Black consumers have long reshaped industries that weren’t originally designed for them. It’s a quiet revolution to claim spaces, even when the gatekeeper is trying to shut the doors.
However, the question remains: Should the support continue for brands that openly disregard the community? The answer lies in the economic power, that Black consumers wield. Fashion, thrives on cultural influence – without hip-hop, many of these brands would lack their current prestige. Perhaps it’s time for more artists to shift their endorsements towards Black owned fashion labels or designers who respect the culture.
The Future of Influence
There is no denying that Black creatives will continue to shape global fashion trends. What remains to be seen is whether those same creatives will use their immense influence to uplift brands that appreciate and support them. Fashion is a dialogue, and it’s time for the industry to listen.
Luxury Brands Who Faced Backlash For Offensive Statements Or Designs:
Gucci: In 2019, Gucci released a turtleneck sweater that resembled black face, sparking outrage. Despite the controversy, many black artists and influencers, continue to wear and promote the brand.
Balenciaga: The brand faced criticism for sweatpants that appeared to appropriate black culture, particularly the sagging pants trend. Despite this, Balenciaga remains popular among hip-hop artists.
Dolce & Gabbana: The Italian fashion house has been accused of making racist remarks (thus anti- Asian comments) and releasing offensive advertisements, yet, it still enjoys support from Black celebrities.
Prada: The brand was called out for selling accessories that resembled racist, caricatures, leading to widespread condemnation. Thus the ‘Little Black Sambo bag charm’.
Comme des Garçons: In 2020 during Paris Fashion Week they showed white models wearing lace front cornrow wigs- evoking Black hairstyles which in my opinion was demeaning and culturally appropriative.
Lululemon: The founder has been accused of fostering a corporate culture that is unwelcoming to Black employees.
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